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Pad and drainage

The pad is the foundation. Everything above it — the frame, the skirting, the floors, whether the home stays level — depends on getting water to leave the site.

Drainage is structural, not cosmetic

Water that collects under a manufactured home does not stay a water problem. It becomes a frame problem, a ductwork problem, an insulation problem, and eventually a floor problem. Skirting traps humidity against the underside. Piers settle unevenly in saturated soil, and a home that settles unevenly needs re-leveling — repeatedly, if the cause is never fixed.

Re-leveling a home every year or two is the visible symptom. The cause is almost always underneath, and it is almost always grade.

What a correct pad does

It sits high enough relative to surrounding grade that water moves away from the home on every side, and it keeps doing that after the fill settles. That means the pad is built above the surrounding ground, the fall continues far enough out to actually carry water off, and nothing downhill — a driveway, a neighbor’s fill, a berm — sends it back.

Fill matters. Material that holds water or that cannot be compacted properly will settle unevenly, and uneven settlement under a pier line is exactly the failure you were trying to avoid. Fill goes in in lifts and gets compacted as it goes, not dumped and shaped.

When you need a retaining wall

Most bad grade can be solved with fill and shaping. A retaining wall becomes necessary when the fall across the site is steep enough that you would need an unreasonable volume of fill, or when the buildable area sits against a cut that will not hold at a stable slope.

It is worth avoiding when it can be avoided. Walls above a certain height generally require engineering, and a wall is a permanent structure that has to be drained behind and maintained. If the site can be shaped instead, shape it.

Grade before you buy, if you can

A steeply sloped or low-lying lot can add more to site work than the difference in land price. Walk it after a rain if you get the chance. Standing water tells you more than a listing photo.

Floodplain and elevation

If any part of the parcel is in a mapped flood zone, the finished floor has to sit at or above the base flood elevation, and some counties require additional height above that minimum. One county in our area requires three feet above base flood elevation — two feet more than the federal floor — and that requirement appears on no fee schedule.

Elevation requirements cascade. More height means more fill, taller piers, longer steps, a steeper driveway approach, and different skirting. It is not a line item you can add at the end.

Where the floodplain is involved, expect to need an elevation certificate from a surveyor before a permit issues. And note that at least one county in our area treats any floodplain on a property as putting the whole property in the floodplain.

What fails inspection

The recurring causes are inadequate fall away from the structure, uncompacted or improperly placed fill, footings sized without regard for the soil’s bearing capacity, and finished floor elevation short of what the floodplain requires. All four are pad and site problems, and all four are cheaper to prevent than to correct with a home already sitting on them.


Common questions

Can’t I just add dirt around the house later if water pools?

Adding fill against the skirting after the fact usually makes it worse, because it traps water rather than moving it and can bury the ventilation. The fall has to be built into the pad.

How much does site prep cost?

It varies more than any other line on the project, because it depends on how much the land has to change. A flat, well-drained, accessible lot needs little. A sloped, low or rocky lot with a long driveway needs a great deal. That is why an honest number follows a site visit.

Do I need an engineered pad?

Not usually for a single home outside the floodplain. Floodplain elevation requirements, retaining walls above a certain height, and poor soils are the situations that pull an engineer in.

My home needs re-leveling every year. Is that normal?

No. Recurring re-leveling generally means the pad or the drainage is not doing its job. Re-leveling treats the symptom; unless the water is dealt with, it comes back.

Get the pad done once

We evaluate the grade, build the pad to what your county and your floodplain status require, and set the drainage so the home stays level. Tell us where the land is.